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Tema: guia cultivo organico

  1. #16
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    dj short:
    (A quick word on "backward" hermaphrodites ? declared males that eventually sport female flowers ? as opposed to the usual female-to-male hermaphrodites. These are semi-rare occurrences, usually sterile but sometimes viable, that I have found at times to be valuable in their genetic contributions. Some of the most resinous and desirable males I have encountered exhibited this trait. This trait almost seems to guarantee against unwanted hermaphroditism in subsequent generations as it also increases the female to male ratio in its progeny.)

    maybe icmac member cannaboy opinion:
    (These are the Male's used through out the life of the origional haze and the mystery of it.)
    It explains about bad and good haze I belive..

    dj short:
    I generally employ a simple process of elimination while selecting males. First, any auto-flowering or very early-declared males are eliminated. (Auto-flowering means that male flowers form regardless of light cycle timing.) This is mainly to insure against hermaphroditism or unwanted flowering traits, but also as a means to insure quality. The very early declared males have a tendency to be less desirable in terms of their contributions to the quality of the finished product. (If you are trying to specifically create an early-flowering strain, then your priorities may be different.)

    Next, any male plant that grows too tall or too fast is usually eliminated. The reason for this is that most plants which dedicate so much energy to fiber production generally are best for making fiber. The exception to this rule is when an over-productive plant also exhibits a number of the desirable characteristics mentioned later.

    The next criteria for elimination is borrowed from Michael Starks' book, Marijuana Potency, and involves stem structure. Large, hollow main stems are sought while pith-filled stems are eliminated. Backed by years of observation, I agree that hollow stems do seem to facilitate THCproduction.

    Another consideration is the type of floral clusters that develop. Even on males, clusters which are tight, compact and yet very productive are desired over an airy, loose structure. These observations are most notable in the indoor environment. Outdoors, the differences in stem and floral structures are more difficult to discern.

    The next and perhaps most important characteristic to examine is that of odor, flavor and trichome development. Again, the females will prove themselves by their finished product, but the males are a bit trickier.

    I usually begin with a Sativa female and an Indica male. It has been my observation that the females primarily contribute the type of flavor and aroma and the males contribute the amount of flavor and odor. The "Sativa/Indica" aspects of this formula are mainly apparent in the P1 or very early filial crosses (to about f3). Beyond the f3 generation the apparent "Sativa/Indica" ratio in a given individual is less important than the odor/flavor and trichome development aspects it exhibits. Therefore, one of the main aspects to consider when selecting a male is the depth of its aroma and flavor. (If you are seeking to develop a low-odor indoor strain you might wish to begin with a low-odor Sativa male and an Indica female.)

    With the remaining males I usually employ an odor/flavor test. Using males at least two or three weeks into the flowering cycle (and preferably beyond if a separate, isolated space is being used), a sort of "scratch-and-sniff" technique is first employed. With clean, odor-free fingers, gently rub one plant at a time, on the stem where it is well developed and pliable, above the woody part and below the developing top (approximately at the spot where a clone would be cut). The newer leaves at their halfway point of development may also be rubbed and sniffed.

    These are the places that the earliest chemical signatures of a developing plant present themselves, and it is our intent to gently disturb these chemicals and inspire an odor/flavor reaction on the fingers and on the plant. By examining these various aromas in this way one may be able to determine certain desirable (and also undesirable) characteristics. After clearing one's palate and refreshing one's fingers, another plant may be tested.

    The finalists are best compared for at least a week and at different times of day, to determine who performs best over a period of time.

    A few of the "good" aromas which I have found to be associated with both male and female high quality cannabis are: sweet, floral, fruity, berry, wine/brandy, other savory spirits, skunky and spearmint. Some of the "bad" aromas associated with both male and female cannabis are: grassy, chlorophyll (green), celery, parsley, carrots, cinnamon, pepper-mint or wintergreen, gear-oil and gasoline. Some of the aromas that are considered "good" from females but not necessarily from males are: woody, cedar, pine, citrus, tropical fruit, chocolate, vanilla, coffee, garlic and astringent.

    Worldwide weed

    It is sad that due to the Unfortunate State of Assholes in the world today we herbalists are treated criminally. Sad because given saner times we would be able to produce vast amounts of fine quality herb by virtue of no more than the great outdoors, large numbered populations and trial and error.

    Someday perhaps, but in the meantime I have few alternate suggestions. Holland, Denmark, Switzerland, Spain and other parts of Europe are opening up more and more toward herbal tolerance. It is relatively easy in these places to score some high quality product.

    It is advisable for the newbie to a scene to buy many small samples of herbals at first until one finds what one likes. Just like in any other travel situation, special surprises await those willing to venture out from the centralized tourist areas (except in Christiania where "one stop shopping" is greatly enjoyed).

    I am willing to bet that some of the many herbal "sweet spots" around the globe may once again be producing their specialties. I am eager to verify any rumor of such possibilities. These sweet spots would include many equatorial and near equatorial regions such as Colombia, Highland Mexico, parts of Thailand, Burma and Bhutan to name a few. Places such as Nepal and Jamaica have been ideal for herbal expeditions as well. These are some of the places one could venture in search of educating one's herbal palate and expanding one's experience. n

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    wakenake (04/04/2014)

  3. #17
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    I have been growing for 12 years and done side by sides with everything and nothing works better than the sun..... but for indoors the best thing is these new Full spectrum HPS bulbs. My resin production has never been higher. My leaves fold up with frost and all but my longest stemmed fanned leaves frost up. Also my plants purple better too!


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    wakenake (04/04/2014)

  5. #18
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    Here is Sugar_Kremlin ladyboy absolute amber.

    Introduction.
    Firstly I have to notice the term absolute here is not about the absolute ethanol.
    I’ve posted about this double extraction for several times as for the method of removing bubbles and a garbage from a primary BHO.
    As was said right - a picture is worth a thousand words, thus I made a photo session to illustrate what do they (and me) mean talking about absolute and concrete.
    Start from the quote to refresh.
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by jump117
    ...
    Absolute (fragrance)(click)
    Used in perfumery and aromatherapy, absolutes are similar to essential oils.
    They are concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants.

    First, an organic solvent, such as hexane, is added to the plant material to help extract the hydrophobic compounds.
    This solution is filtered and concentrated by distillation to produce a waxy mass called concrete.
    The lower molecular weight, fragrant compounds are extracted from the concrete into ethanol.
    When the ethanol evaporates, an oil -the absolute -is left behind.

    Fragrance extraction(click)...Although highly fragrant, concretes are too viscous - even solid - at room temperature to be useful.
    This is due to the presence of high-molecular-weight, non-fragrant waxes and resins.
    Another solvent, often ethyl alcohol, which only dissolves the fragrant low-molecular weight compounds,
    must be used to extract the fragrant oil from the concrete.
    The alcohol is removed by a second distillation, leaving behind the absolute. ...

    Ethanol extraction is a type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials,
    as well as the impure oils or concrete resulting from organic solvent extraction, expression, or enfluerage.
    Ethanol extracts from dry materials are called tinctures, while ethanol washes for purifying oils and concretes are called absolutes.

    The impure substances or oils are mixed with ethanol, which is less hydrophobic than solvents used for organic extraction,
    dissolves more of the oxidized aromatic constituents (alcohols, aldehydess, etc.),
    leaving behind the wax, fats, and other generally hydrophobic substances.
    The alcohol is evaporated under low-pressure, leaving behind absolute.
    The absolute may be further processed to remove any impurities that are still present from the solvent extraction.

    Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials;
    these contain large quantities of water, which would also be extracted into the ethanol.

    (end of quote) The last sentence in the quote is dogma, see the topic in my signature.

    Female plants were reversed into banana ladyboys via colloidal silver stimulation to reap 2cc+ of fem pollen yield.
    Reversed flower in addition to bananas consists of a sepal and adjoining parts covered with trichomes full of resin.


    Sure they are very much poorer in compare to sensimillia buds.
    The flowers were prepared with a manicure scissors to open a covered resinous parts and to remove a poor fragments,
    then placed into extraction pyrex teapot and chilled at -20C together with a lid.

    Primary non-polar extraction.
    Pre-chilled "London" butane (250 ml / 139 g, $2.35) was sprayed into the extraction teapot through the lid port (white in brown lid on photo), at outside temperature +14C (57F).
    The plant matter was floated and stirred in the butane during 10 minutes, no boiling was observed.
    After that solution was coffee-filtered into the evaporation teapot (with glass handle on photo)
    and was placed on the top of the coffeepot, suitable by diameter and shape, filled with a hot water as the double-decker to evape butane quicker.
    Plant matter is full of bananas. It was fresh frozen before the butane run, now its wet volume is 160 ml (cc).



    After evaporation of butane is over the inner surface of the evaporation teapot is covered with a transparent film of a primary non-polar extract.
    It is a concrete also known as BHO.



    Secondary polar re-extraction.
    To take it from a teapot together with secondary polar re-extraction, the ethanol 96% was added into a teapot.
    EtOH doesn't dissolve everything from BHO.
    Butane dissolves some waxes and fats that is insoluble in ethanol while the good resin dissolves in EtOH.
    Tiny undissolved flakes were coffee-filtered off the solution.



    The final evaporation was made on a soup-plate evaporation bowl over the boiling water.
    An absolute was collected with a razor blade when it remains hot.
    At room temperature it is a brittle amber. After broken in two parts it may be soldered together back with a heat of a lighter.
    The coin is russian 10 копеек its diameter is 17,5mm (~0,7").




    I've read a recommendation not to smoke the silver processed plants.
    Probably it was said about STS and was transferred to CS unspecified, I don't know.
    I hope this amber will not make any harm to the health and on the contrary will probably be a medicine against respiratory infections and against a bad weather outside.

    __________________

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    wakenake (04/04/2014)

  7. #19
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    hacer hachis en seco con varias mallas

    https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=253284

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    wakenake (04/04/2014)

  9. #20
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    si quereis ver una guia de cultivo organico muy buena con muchisimas recetas visitar esta de icmag

    https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792

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    komatoso_has (19/01/2014), vaporcito (19/01/2014), wakenake (04/04/2014), weda86 (22/01/2017)

  11. #21
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    http://www.cannabiscafe.net/foros/sh...nnabis/page156
    criadores de cannabis

    https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=245504&page=8
    historia sagarmartha serious

    Principles of Plant Breeding By R. W. Allard. John Wiley & Sons, New York. 1999.

    libro crianza de plantas

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  13. #22
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    Hola: he visto este post y me interesa el tema..... Este año estoy trabajando en una finca de cultivo ecologico y estamos haciendo varios "experimentos" y tengo asceso a diferentes abonos de fabricacion propia. Por un lado tengo te de bocashi (una espacie de compost fermentado de forma aerobia a partir de diferentes estiercoles), abono liquido fermentado de mierda de vaca y purin de ortigas. En la temporada de exterior he probado con la marihuana y no va mal....
    La historia es que ahora tengo un indoor y es mas "delicado". Tengo varias preguntas por si hay algun experto:
    -¿estos abonos tienen el mismo efecto aplicados de forma foliar que via riego? es que solo leo sobre aplicarlos via foliar y para mi seria mas facil via riego.
    -Habia pensado aplicar purin de ortiga las dos primeras semanas de floracion cuando la planta crece mas y convinar el te de estiercol y el abono liquido fermentado a partir de la tercera. ¿ como lo veis?
    Gracias por las respuestas

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    wakenake (04/04/2014)

  15. #23
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    hola @albariza yo no soy ningun experto!
    el purin de ortigas nunca lo he usado! pero si que he aplicado en exterior y en macetas durante el crecimiento y la primera semana de floracion te de compost y estiercol. y en floracion lo mejor creo q son los tes de guano ademas de barato.

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  17. #24
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    Hola @goenexea , gracias por la respuesta, ¿lo aplicas foliar o por riego??? Gracias
    ah y en que proporciones???

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  19. #25
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    @albariza
    por riego, perdona por no dejarlo claro antes! alguna vez foliar..
    un saludo

  20. #26
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    resumen guia de cultivo de tom hill
    https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...&postcount=790

    Tips on Breeding by DJ Short

    https://vutra.org/topic/9935-tips-on-breeding-by-dj-short/

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  22. #27
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    Re: guia cultivo organico


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  24. #28
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    Wenas, solo un par de cosas ... para sexar, las plantas si las germinas en febrero/marzo y las mantienes en una maceta pequeña (1L) unas tres semanas, las puedes tener sexadas por estas fechas (sin afectarles el crecimiento) , y aprovechar para seleccionar y de paso hacer una cosecha primaveral con los esquejes. Germinando en interior en Diciembre ... no te digo como se pueden hacer las planticas ... pero mas grandes de 4mt fijo ...


    En cuanto al uso de preventivos y abonos foliares (sobre todo a base de fruta ), hay que tener en cuenta el ciclo que llevan las propias plagas ... con el uso de esta tabla no suelo tener problemas con ellas:





    Me apalanco por ahi haber que material reunes


    Saludos.
    Share your knowledge, and make a better world.

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    goenexea (24/05/2014), guerrillero8 (04/04/2014), payasoto (05/04/2014), vaporcito (24/05/2014)

  26. #29
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    Re: guia cultivo organico


  27. #30
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    Re: guia cultivo organico

    enlace al libro marijuana botany de clarke... dicen que es el mejor libro de crianza..
    http://books.google.es/books?id=_aK7...clarke&f=false

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